If they want to hide that, why not just not print it on the box?

To play online, yes. Has been like that for a loooong time on PS

I wouldn’t know. All I am saying is that Syncthing would not work for this purpose.

Syncthing works on a file level basis. If files are changed on both devices at the same time, it will have sync conflicts.

I don’t think that is illegal now. As you are technically not an insider

Maybe you didn’t raise it enough? It is definitely the sign of being too close to the bed.

Thanks!

I have done something similar by purposefully adding patterns on the bottom of a 3D model.

Yes, this graph is not clearly presented. It is not really beautiful.

The data it presents is kind of good, but the main message should be here to spread awareness and get more people to participate in that petition.

Ok, let’s look into it. (you can also send me your printer.cfg if you want) The Mini e3 v3 has the following switchable outputs:

• HB - PC9
• E0 - PC8
• FAN0 - PC6
• FAN1 - PC7
• FAN2 - PB15

Keep in mind that they all switch ground only. 24V is always there.

You can use all of them for whatever you want, Klipper is very flexible here. HB is your heated bed, no questions here. E0 should be connected to your Hotted board HE0. I don’t know which of the fans on your board does what, you may need to connect them all and see which one does what (I guess your hotend does not have 3 fans). in the end you want [hotend_fan] to be the one calling the hotend (not the part!). the [fan] will be controlled by the slicer (overhangs, bridges and so on).

DCIN on your board should ideally be connected directly to the PSU, you do not want it to be switched.

don’t worry, we will get you back printing.

Glad to be of help!

The FAN1 in this case can not be controlled by software. It will always be on as soon as the printer is powered.

An exclamation mark (!) inverts a pin. The other symbol (^) enables a pull up resistor on a pin, which is needed for things like endstops or buttons. These can also be combined.

PB0 is just the name of one pin. PC0 would be a completely different pin.

Different Microcontrollers have different naming conventions, that is why you sometimes see names like PB10 and on other controllers it might be GPIO10.

See also the documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html

The printer.cfg is highly dependent on your setup. For reference you can look at the example config for the SKR mini e3 v3: https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-bigtreetech-skr-mini-e3-v3.0.cfg

Well. Why would you want to do that?

In the end, choose the board that has the features you need. Software is the same anyway.

With Klipper you can even combine multiple boards to get the features you want.

That sound like it would wobble and easily tip over, no?

PA is also way too low (if it is even set at all). It could reduce the „thickening“ of the lines at each end dramatically.

You happen to have a link for that? Sounds very interesting

No. Remove the need for a server that the company provides for example.

The point is not to force them to invest into it, but to open them up if they don’t want to support them anymore.

You‘re welcome :)