• 2 Posts
  • 23 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: July 1st, 2023

help-circle






  • The appeal for me is that mine is solar as well. So, it requires zero maintenance for years and years until that capacitor or whatever dies. It’s also basically indestructible.

    I have metal brackets that screw into the resin body so it takes regular nato straps, so I don’t need to worry about replacement straps. I’ve basically dipped this thing in paint on accident before, and it just peels off the resin. I wear it to the beach, where I have previously gotten sand under my rotating bezels.

    I wouldn’t say it’s a particularly good looking watch, but I love it for dirty, abrasive, impacting, tough situations. Situations where I’d scratch a metal watch or crystal.







  • At my previous job, once a year they had a catalog of company merch. Nobody ever got it, because it was kind of over priced. Well, I had a good year and wanted a jacket and a zip up fleece. It was like, $160. My order comes, and I love it. I give the person in charge of said orders a check. Next day, she gives it back, saying they were having an issue cashing it internationally, or something. Because the company is headquartered in Canada. So, a week goes by and I ask if it was sorted out, or should I pay a different way. She said she’d let me know. Then, she quit. I was there another year, and nobody ever hunted me down for my $160. Then I quit. Free jacket and fleece.

    I do have a small collection of parts that were manufactured or ordered incorrectly. They’re useless, and too small to be of any scrap value. I like them because they are so drastically different from the prints, it’s funny. Like, what were they thinking when they made these? I’ll probably bring them back ans toss them in the scrap bin before I leave this job.




  • Fusion 360 looks like it has some nice surfacing abilities. That makes sense to use nib units. I don’t think my Adventurer 3 can print the small, fine threads of a nib unit, so I’m opting for an old school grip section you friction fit the feed and nib into.

    I’ve been working on my model this week and instead of the stud filler, I am going for a Conklin style crescent filler. Just one more piece to design, and I’m ready to do some test prints. Ink sacs are in the mail.


  • We have similar goals. I am not so concerned with having it modifiable, I’m working in NX and am not going to be making .prt files available. This pen is for me, and if others like it, so be it.

    But making it almost entirely printed is also my goal. I’m using a Jinhao #6 feed, and a Fountain Pen Revolution #6 nib. No saying you couldn’t use a JoWo, or a Jinhao, or a Bock #6 nib, though. I thought about cartridge converters, but thought it might be too difficult to print the connection interface. The Pilot Con-B squeeze converter could be a good option though, I think that has a bigger hole. I’m going with a latex sac because it seemed easiest to me.

    I, also, hate pen kits. The all look identical, with their skinny little grip sections and tiny nibs blown out to a huge body. The nibs are always cheap, and the pens are always heavy.

    What software are you using?