You can also use electrical tape to cover the 5V pin: https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574

What kind of filament is that printed with and are you concerned about it failing over time? Especially if there’s spinning disks in there I’d be paranoid as hell about it falling.

It’s not web based but MKVToolNix GUI is pretty user friendly. I haven’t dug into it too deeply so I don’t know if it offers any automation tools to batch change files etc.

I whipped up a basic page with PHP and just used XAMPP when I was on Windows. I recently switched my daily driver pc to linux and haven’t updated it yet. I only used it to save MP3s, videos at yt-dlp default “best available” settings, and a custom option that lists available video/audio formats where I can specify the ID to grab of each. No validation or sanity checking etc, just some switch statements and basic form functions.

main page

custom selection

Awesome, glad to hear it!

When you’re ready to try printing again I agree with the suggestions to:

• lower the bed temp to ~60c
• avoid using glue sticks or similar since it shouldn’t be necessary with PLA, and will just add another variable
• keep working through first layer print tests

I’m surprised you’re having adhesion problems with a PEI build plate. When I swapped to PEI it was like magic; filament effortlessly sticks and finished prints pop off from a gentle flex. There isn’t like a plastic shipping cover on it or something is there?

Anyway, good luck with the rest of your troubleshooting – I’m sure you’ll eventually get it dialed in :)

VGTG VGH

I have no personal experience with a failed firmware update but a quick search returned https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/sv06-bad-flash-probably-needs-bootloader/1452 and “solved” = https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/sv06-mainboard-brick-after-updating-sovol-firmware/862/52

Seems like for some people it was ultimately the sd card being faulty that was causing the failure, especially if it was the sd card included with the printer.

Good luck!

To my eyes the inner rectangle portions look pretty good and uniform. If that’s a brim around the outer edge it’s definitely not doing its job.

Is the severe warping and sharp creases from you fighting to remove it from the plate or is this basically how it looked on the printer?

EDIT: If there’s any kind of draft near the printer maybe you could try using a cardboard box or something to build a makeshift enclosure.

Are you saying the surface in the picture is the one that touches the bed? If that’s the case it should be nearly perfectly flat and smooth(ish depending on bed texture). If that’s the orientation it prints in there’s still an issue of distance and possibly belt tension or something else because of those waves and deep grooves. There’s a bunch of different methods to level a bed but ultimately you want the nozzle to slightly squish the filament it is putting down, in the picture it looks like it might not be.

As for the bed being clean, if you haven’t yet I’d definitely spray some isopropyl alcohol and wipe it off, taking care not to touch the bed with your hands at all – oil from your skin will easily cause adhesion issues.

Larger prints in general, and especially if there’s temperature variance while printing (drafts), can start to pull off the bed as the material contracts. You may need to add a brim in your slicer to help keep it welded down. When it’s necessary to use one will be a learning experience as you get used to your particular printer and environment.

Seems like a huge waste of filament and print time. I use Rubbermaid TakeAlongs which are air-tight and transparent, negating the need to label what’s inside.

Have you looked into Pseudotv / PseudoTV_Live?