A software developer and Linux nerd, living in Germany. I’m usually a chill dude but my online persona doesn’t always reflect my true personality. Take what I say with a grain of salt, I usually try to be nice and give good advice, though.
I’m into Free Software, selfhosting, microcontrollers and electronics, freedom, privacy and the usual stuff. And a few select other random things, too.
Do you install the CA certificate or the client certificate? Because both aren’t the same. The app needs to authenticate with a client certificate file. The server has a server certificate that is checked against the CA certificate. So you’d install that (CA) in the android system certificate store and additionally give a client certificate file to the app.
I have a NFS and Samba share to my NAS. And Jellyfin exports things via DLNA / UPnP so there is always a local route to the storage. Also I’ve set the IP address of the server in the /etc/hosts file of my router. So even when internet is down, the DNS can resolve it.
Ah okay. I don’t have a Fritzbox here. I suppose that does the trick. My idea was to use that to test if incoming IPv6 works. So disregard any services on the Fritzbox itself and just see if you can access it directly. And if yes, configure an IPv6 port forward to the NAS.
Isn’t myfritz plain old IPv6 directly to the router without any proxying or tunneling? If yes, communication would mean IPv6 packets make their way through the ISP to the router.
If you google it, you’ll find lots of similar questions for O2. I think you have to contact their customer support and get that activated once.
And have a look at your IPv4 and IPv6 addresses. Sometimes you can do it via IPv6 already, just not over IPv4 because there is some translation in the way. (In case they want too much money to give you a real IPv4 address.)
Maybe you can try if you can open your FritzBox UI from the outside with your my.fritz address. I think that has IPv6 and a port forward in place (if activated).
And btw: It’s perfectly fine to do it. People need storage and online collaboration. Access to their data while away.
I usually look at these awesome … lists. They list quite some mail servers:
I think you first need a mailserver, then you’d use imapsync (for example) to move the mailbox initially, and then periodically fetch the mails from gmail.
For outgoing mail you can either configure your mailserver to relay mail via your gmail account. Or configure your mail program to send mail directly via gmail.
Fair enough. I don’t have any first hand experience to offer. But I think I read a test of baby monitors in some consumer magazine a while back. As far as I remember few of them were good. Maybe you got one of the several bad models. My friends have some audio only monitors. They fail safe, you immediately hear static noise once the connection gets interrupted. But yeah, they only transmit a few hundred meters because it’s radio signals. It’s not like an IP cam where you can watch your baby from another continent.
FYI: Babycam manufacturers claim you shouldn’t use IP cameras because they’re not as reliable as their products. I think that mostly applies to the reliable triggering on sound (if the baby cries).
Thank you very much. That seems like a nice addition to my little smarthome. But there are quite a lot of options available. Maybe I can learn something, too. It’d be nice to push some messages through the house and have the weather and train delays available in the bathroom in the morning (for example).
Can you link a source where to buy them or a model? I don’t have any information. But I’d be interested, too.
“something”: how to draw something on the display. Sorry, I’m a bit lazy when typing on my phone.
If you’re having frequent power outages, you might consider buying an UPS. Other than that, I’d just buy a new CMOS battery every few years. Mine seem to last way longer than 4 years. Maybe 8y or so.
I can recommend PlatformIO or Arduino. Or MicroPython, CircuitPython … if you’re into that or the learning curve for C proves to be too steep. ESPhome is really great for connecting to HomeAssistant or doing some standard IoT stuff and getting results without too much coding.
The ESP32 are really versatile and a good choice to get your fingers dirty with (in my opinion).
https://esphome.io has documentation on all the components, how to draw sth on a display and a few example projects under “Cookbook”.
I’m not sure if 3-4 times a day is a lot. I had computers (especially laptops) which were way more aggressive with spinning up and down the disks. Maybe you can look it up. A decent (enterprise(?)) hdd should have some datasheet available including info about how often you can powercycle or spin them up/down.
And I wouldn’t wake up disks deliberately. If you don’t mind the 5-10s waiting, you can just spin them down at the end of the day and leave them that way. The next day they’ll either spin up on first access, or they won’t. And save that one cycle. I’m not sure though if you can change the spindown timeout during the day without also waking it up. I mean you could run a script that spins them down at 22:00 and sets the timeout to 1h, and at 07:30 you run a script to keep them awake for a 6h period. But you’d need to test if changing that setting wakes them up. Or I’d rather not run a script like that. Sometimes executing hdparm spins up a disk, even if unnecessary.
I think you got enough recommendations for several tunneling solutions.
Apart from that (and free DynDNS) you could also use a regular paid DNS provider. Some of them also offer DynDNS or an API. I think I saw some regular providers in the list of my DynDNS client on my router, next to the super cheap or free ones.
It’s easy to use, reliable, and doubles as a webserver so I only need one software to host my websites and also do the reverse proxying to the other webservices.
Buy the cheapest graphics card with 16 or 24GB of VRAM. In the past people bought used NVidia 3090 cards. You can also buy a GPU from AMD, they’re cheaper but ROCm is a bit more difficult to work with. Or if you own a MacBook or any Apple device with a M2 or M3, use that. And hopefully you paid for enough RAM in it.
That is indeed a good question. Is this something RAID is bothered with at levels 0 and 1? I think in this case it’s the job of the filesystem to care for that. But you should probably let the periodic task run that does scrubbing like once per week. You could also experience other issues than just bitrot. For example bad sectors and one of the hdds slowly degrading.
In the end I don’t think a RAID1 can do much about bitrot and other RAID woes. There are no checksums or anything to correct for that. You’d probably need some other technology for that. But it’s probably the same for a ZFS mirror. And everything better than that needs more than 2 hdds.
Does anyone happen to know if there is a N100 model that supports HDMI-CEC so I can make my old TV set smart with a recent Kodi and maybe some retro-games? But I’d rather not let it consume 9W or whatever such a machine needs all day long. So it’d need to start and shut down on its own. Preferably without manual additional steps involved, hence the CEC…