For bowden there is a benefit.

There is not. I can empirically prove it to you as well. Half of the ‘capricorn’ tubing you get from Amazon isn’t even genuine - yet everyone there is clamoring on about how it made a difference.

Turns out, that confirmation bias and placebo effect share a lot of overlap. I get it, nobody wants to admit they’ve been bamboozled. But hey…stay critical of your observations.

You don’t really use pressure advance in bowden systems because the bowden system is flexible enough that it actually negates most of the advantages of pressure advance. As the pressure increases, the bowden tube itself stretches lengthwise. This has little or nothing to do with the interior bore of the PTFE tubing. The reason you are increasing it so much is because you’re overshooting due to the length of the tubing, not the internal diameter.

We’re not comparing Bowden vs Non-Bowden here, regardless. We’re comparing generic PTFE bowden, to “Capricorn” bowden anyhow.

So you’ve managed to argue the completely wrong thing to begin with, AND you were wrong on the thing you argued. Congrats.

Please continue to forget about that cancer site.

The tubing diameter difference is only fractions of a mm, and now you’re talking about a 100mm length along. You don’t need to measure it, it’s literally in the dimensions and tolerance info of the product.

This is either A: Simply too close to the bed, or B: Your nozzle is wallowed out due to printing glow in the dark filament or carbon fiber, so you’re printing a fatter bead of plastic than your slicer thinks you are.

This is the result of your nozzle tearing up the previously laid down plastic and folding it over as it follows the path.

Sorry but this is not even close.

The hysteresis that the tubing imparts on the movement of filament is negligible at best. We’re talking fractions of a millimeter of difference; and it’s something that can be accounted for in your retraction quite easily. Remember that this hobby is LITTERED with people trying to sell you stuff. Be critical in your observations, because even most YouTube channels will tell you that [X] thing is GREAT because if they don’t, they stop getting free shit.

Tighter fitting tubing is actually likely to cause you more issues. It’s a myth that capricorn tubing is better in any way. In a way, you want a somewhat loose fitting tubing; especially if you’re cheaping out on PLA.

So, say you’ve got a partial clog – The thing that usually happens is the feeder will skip/slip or tear into your filament. This causes the filament to go out of round, and can even push the sides of the filament out further than the tubing is wide. This causes the filament to then take more pressure to push through the tubing, adding to the already existing problem.

There’s kind of a bell curve of users where their needs are so simple that Linux use is great for them. They’ll never do anything more complex than visit a webpage in Firefox, and that’s great.

Then as your needs get more and more complex, Linux isn’t quite a good fit – You’ll want to use a specific printer, or a specific software (looking at you solidworks!), or you’ll have some sort of organization that requires you use MS Office, etc. – There are ways around all of that stuff, but if you’re not already on the train, it can get frustrating.

Up until your needs get even more complex, where Linux starts becoming the best choice again - You want a tiling window manager, and ipv6 with firewall and ZFS on the network etc.

It’s the middle bell curve where your new user is already kind-of a power user, but not quite a technical-user yet that gets people.

The thing is, you can force plastic through a smaller nozzle. But you end up with a problem called die-swell, where the filament then re-expands after exiting the nozzle. You’ll see this REALLY easily with silk filaments.

Those are surprisingly effective to be quite honest. You never know what kinds of systems people have though, so you gotta kinda cover it all.

They really need to stop selling Ender 3s, 3 pro, 3 v2, and other ‘prior generation’ Enders. The 3v3 is the one to get now, and doesn’t have near the learning curve of the old ones.

Not just pet hair, but pet dander. Pets in general just add a bunch of stuff to the air that likes to land on top of uncovered rolls of filament; I run a repair shop for 3D printers, and after some surveying, I’ve found that people with pets experience clogs much more often.

0.2mm nozzles are like 25% of the area that a 0.4 has. That means every, little, potential bit of problem can, and WILL clog the nozzle.

Additionally, the 0.2mm nozzles are so tiny, there’s not likely a good way to clean them, as most needles are 0.3mm or larger.

Yes and no; you’ve got a lot of engineering variables here.

Can you go physically faster in the X/Y, if limited by your volumetric flow already? Yes.

Can you go physically faster in X/Y and maintain the same quality with the current machine setup? It depends on your setup.

If you’re not limited by volumetric flow of the hot end already, then you could theoretically go a lot faster. If your setup isn’t rigid and able to maintain those speeds, you’ll end up with garbage.

BUT NONE OF THAT MATTERS

If you think you’re having heat creep - the first thing to check is the fans.

Next thing to check is that you ACTUALLY have the hot end built correctly. The stock hot end is known for pushing that PTFE tubing up, melting filament, and forming a plug between the end of the PTFE tubing and the nozzle’s back face.

Additionally, 0.2mm nozzles are a BITCH AND A HALF. Get into Resin if you need better quality than a 0.4mm can provide you. Or hire it out.

You’re trying to solve the wrong problem here. You don’t try and go faster because something is broken. You go faster when everything is working PERFECTLY.

If you are stubborn and still want to use 0.2mm nozzles – A: Don’t own pets. B: Buy high quality filament. C: install wipers along the filament path. D: Get a good air filtration system for the area the 3D printer lives in. E: Buy high quality nozzles that you can be assured are actually 0.2mm

I mean, it was less than 20 years ago that this used to happen to me, but it was usually a matter of going to archlinux.org, and usually right on the front page, they’d have a “You need to run this command to fix it”.

They even have one for July 1st right on the home page. So it absolutely does happen from time to time.

This is normal for vase mode, unless you have the bottom disabled. You’re doing normal, full layers there probably. What does the print look like? Is this even so much of a blemish that you should bother?

I’ve heard that anyone who’s drank water has died anyways.

They do still contain a good portion of rubber; the natural type farmed from trees.

Didn’t misunderstand at all, you just used different wording.

You want to utilize an existing partition on the drive, as a VM image and boot it while you’re in Windows.

The answer is yes, you can. Again, the VM part isn’t the problem here. Virtualbox can do it, but they require some major workarounds in order to do.

https://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/784138-howto-boot-existing-ubuntu-partition-using-virtualbox-inside-windows/

This is just one example out of many out there on Google. Understand that the commands here are NOT making a new drive image. They are making a drive image FILE that is specially formatted with the tools to point to the existing partition on the drive. VMWare can do this, QEMU can do this, Virtualbox can do this… you’re just making a VM image, where the data points to an actual hard existing partition on the drive.

Once again – This is NOT making a new VM with its own drive, even though the command looks similar. I’m sure HyperV can do it as well, I’m simply not familiar enough with its packaging.

It’s literally been built into windows since Windows 10, natively.

Can you access another partition on the drive and boot it? I’m sure it’s possible somehow. The VM part isn’t really the problem here.

It’s because they aren’t installing the correct bulbs. Some dimmers work by cutting the ‘pulse’ that goes to the light early, some of them work by lowering the voltage/current.

When you install a direct LED to one that cuts the pulse, you get flickering. Incandescent bulbs don’t do this because they’re white-hot and don’t change luminosity fast enough for you to notice.

Basically: If they’re flickering – they did it wrong.