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How do you switch modes? Like, activating nav or symnum layout?

Or how do you even use the [shift] key, while it’s primarily bound to [R] ?

I still wonder how anyone would remember and adjust to all these key combos, since there are no labels for them.

I imagine having to look up each character on a large A2 poster.

Looks funny and elegant, but typing appears to be a nightmare on this layout.

This one looks very promising to me. It’s probably exactly what I was looking for, for too long.

This is not the answer to your work flow, but I found a lightweight solution that works for my simple designs: OpenSCAD

The work flow here is to implement geometrical shapes within a few lines of code.

She looks beautiful!

Now I want one, too. Just for the looks.

You did some decent engineering on a cheap disposable pen. I hope it was worth the effort.

Almost the same situation here. However, my first designs in freeCAD had lots of errors and I experienced lots of crashes and bugs. Didn’t really get into it.

My tool of choice is now OpenSCAD. It does exactly what you are designing - not more, not less.

Agreed. I’m not a V2 owner, but I built a Trident. The V2 is a little overhyped, IMHO.

In the end, it’s just a matter of your own personal taste though. If you want a highly aesthetic printer with complex mechanics, go for the V2. If you like to keep it simpler without sacrificing much, go with the Trident.

If you are fine with a smaller device, the V0 may be the right choice. You could reinforce the frame and do a few other mods to achieve insane (yet experimental) print speeds. 1500 mm/s is doable.

In theory, the V2 can print a little faster, due to the low center of gravity on the first layers.

However, the fixed gantry height on the Trident makes it possible to install a fixed part cooling, a lighter print head and go even faster.

I mean the keymap. So Colemark it is. Thanks!

I’ve never seen this layout before.

Sharkoon Skiller Mech SGK3. It’s a full size keyboard, if that doesn’t put you off. Featuring a heavy sheet of metal for the surface, and you can choose from linear, tactile and clicky switches (non-swappable). For 60-80 €, that’s a real steal.

Side note: You don’t need to level the bed after each nozzle change. Keeping this in mind saves quite some time and effort.

I change nozzles depending on the project.

0.4 and 0.5 are nice for smaller parts with fine details. But for mineatures / small figures, I tend to 0.3 or even 0.2 nozzles. 0.1 only for exceptional small and detailled works, since these nozzles constantly tend to clogging. And then there are taller parts which have to be strong, like shelf brackets or vases. That’s where my 0.8 and even 1.0 mm nozzles do shine.

Last, but not least: You don’t need a high-flow hotend for wider nozzles. Any hotend will do (tested with an old Ender2), as long as you adjust speed and temperature accordingly. Some trial and error is the key.

Whoever needs a numpad is lost. Change my mind.

She looks cute!

It’s used for CAPITALIZATION. I know that’s a pretty rare scenario.

I use US ANSI keyboards from time to time. Enter key and the keys behind it used to be quite some deal before I started adapting to it. Haven’t heard of EURkey yet, so I went with us-international. One thing that bothered me there though: There is no uppercase ßẞ.

But a K2 has 6 rows. I’m now writing this comment on a K2. Your keyboard has only 5 rows. How come?