New ceramic burrs.
I typically use light roast beans, apparently ceramic is better there.
Went through the hyperalignment procedure and got close but not perfect. Had to move on and get it back together at some point.
New ceramic burrs.
I typically use light roast beans, apparently ceramic is better there.
Went through the hyperalignment procedure and got close but not perfect. Had to move on and get it back together at some point.
Works the same, just inline. And this grinder has two
This is how I did it with my old board. My new board has a jumper to toggle between powering via USB and not.
Extraction is heavily controlled by amount of water, temperature, grind size, and time.
To get an under extracted brew, you would use more water with a shorter brew time with a course grind at a lower temperature. This should give you something that’s sour, weak, watery, with a thin mouthfeel.
Overextraction would be the opposite. Boiling water in a preheated brewing device, fine grind, less water, steeped for a longer time. This should taste dark, bitter, burnt, strong, with a soupy grimy mouthfeel.
You can make one cup of each at the extremes to taste the difference, and then use that information to tweak your regular brew one variable at a time. Look up the coffee compass to help understand what you’re tasting and which direction to move.
It’s a joke about software development tools breaking in dumb ways, and that it’s not a problem with saws
I’m a software engineer who does woodworking, and I approve this message.
But my favorite explanation: you grab your hand saw, and it works. You don’t find out that the latest npm japanese-hand-saw-tooth package is incompatible with plywood, and you need to downgrade the package or buy new plywood to make a cut.
The only thing spicy in Ukraine is horseradish
I can barely code fibonacci, doubt I could model it
Ender, prusa, bambu are names that have popularity, longevity, and reputation.
You can find a ton of recommendations and best printer lists with a quick search. You would probably be fine with most printers on those lists if you wanted to save some money, but the above three are solid and give you a good budget range already.
There’s a little bit of movement but it’s not too annoying. When loaded up with belts, taking one off doesn’t make a big difference.
My personal solution was to not own any. But I have thought about it. Maybe a slot on both ends of the body to slide the knob of the buckle into. That would allow for two belts pretty easily.
Try to go with something popular so you can find help when things inevitably go wrong. Expect to learn a lot when building. If you like that, awesome, do it. Otherwise you may want to consider a prebuilt prusa or bambu.
Clearly you need to buy more belts to fill out your new belt organizer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RKZFD5Z
One failed during install, but they refunded the cost of one light. I ended up using 8 for my garage instead of 10, and it’s still exceptionally bright. It almost hurts going in there at night.
Managed to fix the busted light with some soldering anyway.
https://www.printables.com/model/567699-90-degree-offset-mount-for-t8-led-shop-tube-lights
I might have crossed my wires, it was probably just a forum post I misread. I happened to have new ceramic burrs so I went ahead and installed them.
I got closer to a perfect pull this morning after adjusting the right lever! Unfortunately I’m out of that coffee now so the process restarts with the next bag.