linuxgator

Make sure all of the parts of your hotend are tightened. Especially where the Teflon tube ends. I set up a new printer once and it was having similar issues and it ended up the nozzle wasn’t fully tightened and was getting plugged up in the small gap. Changed the nozzle, cleaned the plugged material out, and made sure everything was tight, and it started printing just fine. Most PLA should print well at 200.

Hopefully it’ll help.

Cura has an option called “print thin walls” I was unable to print and smaller text without it enabled. But when it was enabled, things looked pretty good.

Boston and Charlotte need to be defragged.

If Twitter is any indication, he’ll do a great job destroying the space station.

Seagate has the very well earned nickname of Seabrick.

They can just go raid some of the Russian satellites that already have the fissionable material onboard.

This isn’t David Mitchell

I seldom had any good adhesion on clean glass. But cheap hairspray works wonders for me. Gives it something to stick to, but also functions as a release agent. Especially helpful if you ever use PETG, because it’s been known to actually bond to the glass.

What version of klipper are you using? I know it used to auto load the default profile, but they changed it about a year ago to require you to manually set it, either with a macro or in gcode itself.

Are you using anything on the bed?

As far as adhesion goes, what print surface are you using? I personally have found that a glass bed with aqua net hairspray works better than any other combo that I’ve tried. I almost never have any issues with adhesion using PLA or PETG.

I’ve always used the name default. I’ll look into changing it in the config.

One thing that was driving me crazy was that even when I manually leveled, I wasn’t getting uniform leveling as I expected. Turns out that klipper doesn’t automatically load the measured grid automatically. So basically after I ran the bed leveling, it requires a restart to save, but doesn’t load on start. Once I realized that, I made a habit of just loading the mesh manually each time it restarted. Started getting expected leveling results after that.

I printed a TPU gasket for a water bottle once a few years ago after my cat destroyed the original silicone one. Still works without any noticable leaks.

Check out Ondsel. It’s a fork of FreeCAD with some additional features and polish.

Good luck!

When you do your manual leveling, are you doing it with the bed heated? I usually do mine with both the bed and nozzle heated so that it’ll be in the same condition as printing, and to keep any excess filament in the nozzle easy to remove.

I recently came across the same problem. What I found was that klipper doesn’t automatically load the default mesh. If you add BED_MESH_PROFILE load=default to your gcode header (substitute default with whatever mesh profile you use), then it should load the saved profile at print time. Not sure if it’s unique to the board or not, but I’m running the same one.

Also, I made some of these and they are great for keeping the leveling knobs from turning. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563

Kittens don’t age well. Eventually they turn into cats.